Changing worn chain & sprockets, changing ratios plus new chain slider block...

Well I had a Triumph OE spec chain & sprockets that I fitted to the bike shortly after purchase, shortly after that I fitted a Renthal ally rear sprocket..for looks & weight saving, they had done about 30K I suppose and although the adjustment was fine I think I was developing a few stiff links..so as the chain slider block needed changing I decided to do the lot. If you are after the slider block only scroll down the page as I have listed this separate from the chain & sprockets as really they are two different jobs..

Changing the standard 43 tooth rear sprocket for a 45 one was also on the cards to see what the benefits might be..?

It's a bit drawn out on the early Triumphs to do this work as the primary sprocket cover is oil carrying so an oil change is also necessary..

I needed to get:

Oil
Oil Filter
Copper sump washer
Primary sprocket cover gasket
Chain & sprockets
Chain slider block
lock washer for primary sprocket nut
Gear change shaft oil seal

The chain is a 530 pitch extra heavy duty gold item...I got 114 links as I wasn't sure if the standard 110 would be enough to accommodate the larger rear sprocket, Sprockets were Renthal items, all the seals & stuff came from Sprint Manufacturing.

First job was to warm the bike up drain the old oil, change out the oil filter and torque sump nut and oil filter up ready for fresh oil when I have done every thing else.

To get the primary sprocket cover off to gain access to the sprocket nut you have to remove the side stand & gear change linkage plus the clutch slave cylinder & push rod... The side stand is bolted on at two points There is a knack to undoing them (see side stand upgrade..) and the side stand switch also needs to be removed to stop the side stand dangling from the wire, gear change linkage needs to be removed by loosening the lock nuts and winding the central adjuster until the two halves come apart...Note the position of the clamp on the gear change spindle (as this dictates the position of the gear change lever) then loosen it & remove...this is so you can return it a the same position if it goes on at the wrong position you will have to remove the side stand again to gain access to it to adjust....what a blooming pain that is.....eerrr cough...not that I would know of course..!



Remove the clutch slave cylinder careful not to pull the clutch in while this is dangling as you could eject the cylinder and end up with hydrolic fluid everywhere...to be safe you could put a couple of zip ties around it. I just zip tied mine out of the way.



Remove the clutch push rod & set aside, remove all the sprocket cover bolts and be amazed at how tough it is to wiggle the cover free..!! There are a couple of locating dowels that you need to be aware of so they don't get lost and go back where they should. When it is clear you can lever out the old gear spindle oil seal with a flat bladed screw driver, clean off the old gasket from both surfaces and give it all a good clean up, press fit in a new oil seal ready for reassembly.



Now I can attack the primary sprocket..note I'm doing this before I remove the chain as you'll need the chain to hold everything solid while you attempt to undo the primary sprocket nut....I say attempt as the first time I did this it took a fat mate of mine sitting on the bike..with the bike in gear and him pressing the rear brake on as hard as he could with me on the end of a 4ft scaff pole on a breaker bar & it was a struggle....a big struggle !!!

After knocking the tabs back on the lock washer I was ready to think how to attack the nut



This time I decided that as the good lady wasn't fat enough to take on the task and since moving have no fat mates locally, I must buy an electric impact driver..this I'm am pleased to say made very short work of it like about a second with no effort on my part at all..

You will need a 36mm socket to fit the nut..any excuse to buy a new tool ;-)



Now the primary sprocket nut was loose I could remove the old chain and sprocket, I filed the end off a link rivet, attacking it whilst wound onto the rear sprocket to hold it in place, I then used a chain breaking tool to press out the pin and the old chain came apart.





To get the rear sprocket off I removed the rear wheel put it up against a wall so I could put my knee on it so I was pushing down as the force of the spanner on the nut pushes the wheel against the wall giving me enough purchase to undo the sprocket nuts..



Popped the new sprocket back on tightening up the sprocket nuts to 85Nm, mmmmmm pretty...



Primary sprocket on tightened to 132Nm, lock washer tabs tapped over, rear wheel back in and I'm making progress. I had to feed the new chain in over the sprockets and see how many links I had to remove to cater for the larger rear sprocket...as it turned out 110 links had the chain adjuster pushed pretty far forward but not too much, working on the premise that there would be a few adjustments as the chain bedded in and maybe stretched a little I was happy with that, so 4 links came out and the chain joined with a soft rivet link pressed home with the chain breaking too with anvils attached to spread the end of the soft rivets the correct amount.





It was all pretty much back together now it was just a case of reassembly with a new sprocket cover gasket held in place with a little grease in one or two places as it can be a little unruly..! To protect the new gear change shaft oil seal I put some tape over the splines on the end..



Then carefully wiggled the primary sprocket cover over it making sure the dowels were in place and tightened everything home taking the opportunity to use stainless allen head bolts to match the rest of the engine. A little grease on the clutch push rod before it goes in and not forgetting to fill up with oil and adjust the chain slack..

End result looks better and goes better...have to get used to carrying more revs all the time but the acceleration is now a bit more frantic and exciting if you were to add more teeth to a faired Triumph I would want it to have 6 gears instead of the naked 95's 5 gears because it's not a mod that will make motorways a relaxing thing !!


Chain Slider Block Replacement....

So I had the rear wheel of to change the rear sprocket etc so needed to replace the chain slider block as it had worn until it was just scratching the swing arm..the swing arm has to come out to do this and is fairly straight forward. Bear in mind you will have to support the bike off the ground so the there is no tension put on the swing arm..I used my Abba stand with the swing arm removal kit as has been listed in previous topics..If you have a hugger fitted remove it and also the clip on that retains the rear brake hose to the swing arm.

Remove the end caps that cover the swing arm spindle bolts, then remove the plastic end caps that cover the grease nipple bolts that secure the suspension linkage dog bones to the swing arm, then with the aid of a spanner and socket loosen off both sides and remove the bolts a little upward support for the swing arm will allow the bolts to be removed quite easily..





Ok cool the swing arm is now disconnected from the suspension no we have just got to disconnect it from the bike...12mm socket head x 2 will be required, I use 1 socket head and one of the 12mm allen keys from the tool kit, one to hold it & one to loosen it.Remove the spring clips from both sides first. It takes a bit of pressure to loosen off the bolts so you may want an extension to give a little more leverage to make life easier for yourself..



To knock through the swing arm spindle I use a piece of M8 threaded bat with a couple of nuts wound onto the end this needs to be twice the length of the spindle because the spindle is hollow the bar slips into it and butts up on the far side I can then tap it out..



The swing arm will need a bit of pulling and wiggling to come free, it has an ally spacer that runs between the central gap so watch out for that. Once free you can clean and inspect the swing arm remove the bearing dust covers clean, grease and reassemble. The chain slider block is only held in place with a couple of screws..torx headed if I remember correctly..it's a synch to swap out the old for new now..





Before reassembly I tend to take a bit of time cleaning around the suspension dog bones etc and applying fresh Molybdenum Disulphide grease, the swing arm is a tighter fit than you may expect and does take some persuading to get in properly, DON'T forget to align the spacer back into the swing arm before you put the spindle through again this sounds simple enough but is a bit of a fiddle..in fact an extra arm or two at this stage might cut down on the struggling and swearing normally necessary !!

Torque settings for reassembly are
Swing arm spindle bolt 85Nm
Dog bone bolts 55Nm

I also give a few squirts of Moly grease into the grease nipples on the dog bone bolts for good measure too.