Basics you can do....

I wasn't going to cover this but, as it is probably the first job anyone attempts to do I decided I would. It may encourage someone else to do it. Working on your bike is a valuable way of getting to know your machine is in good order, as you carry out more and more work you will uncover potential problems that need fixing, plus you will have the satisfaction of a job well done, cheaper than the shop and no wondering if the work has been carried out as intended ?

So get yourself prepared...

You will need

Oil ( I use Silkolene Comp 4 or Mobil fully synth it's not the cheapest but has never let me down)
New filter
Sump plug washer (some folk don't bother with a new one every time but for the sake of a few pence why not ?) be aware that there are two washers available one is a copper washer and the other an ally one, they obviously changed the design & size of these for some reason at some time, you will probably only know which is correct by the time you have the sump nut off...
O ring kit (again some folk don't bother every time but it's good to replace it from time to time)
Tray ( to catch the old oil as it drains out,I use a seed tray from the garden center)
Funnel (to get the old oil back into the oil can)
News paper ( to catch any mess you make)
Rags ( always handy to wipe up as you go)
Tools to undo the sump nut and oil filter 12mm Allen socket, 17mm hex socket
Torque wrench (ideally you would have one to tighten up everything to the correct amount, if you do buy one get a good one as it will be with you for ever, if looked after, and will save oohhh so many problems in the future!!!)


Ok you are ready to go...

Right now for the good bit...take your bike for a good spin, you need to get the oil nice and hot, that makes it runny so it will drain out a lot better. When you get back put the bike on to the center stand or paddock stand, then get all your stuff together,then loosen the oil filler cap, this will allow air to enter as the oil drains out.



First up lay the news paper under the engine, then slide your tray under the bike ready to catch the old oil, undo the sump nut(12mm Allen headed socket required)My Sprint has a normal hex nut hence the difference in sump nut washers required !



Be a little careful as the oil will be hot! I find a little upward pressure as I undo it stops the oil from running down the thread over your fingers,one of two things will happen now...one...you will drop the sump plug as the oil starts to gush out, this will then be amongst the oil in the tray and you will have to fish it out....two.. you will have guessed it just about right and have been able to pull the sump nut away just as the oil is about to start coming out. Only you will know by then what the turn out has been.

Let the oil drain away, it will now hopefully be looking something like this


Then loosen the oil filter bolt (17mm hex socket required) , the old (like mine !) Speed triples have a paper filter that is located within the sump, T5s etc have a canister filter that is screwed into the engine and exposed. I reckon the old S3 must have been one of the last with this method, still for me it's no extra effort and also keeps the lines of the engine cleaner and meaner !



As you start to spin the filter mounting assembly off more oil will start to gush out so make sure the tray is positioned to catch this, remove the assembly and dismantle it. First the washer off the top, then the filter, then the washer and spring, this will leave you with the mounting screw which doubles as the oil high pressure bypass that is attached to the bottom plate. If you have bought a new O ring kit to go with your oil filter you will need to separate the bolt from the plate to replace the O ring. Then you need to remove the old O ring from the bottom plate and place the new one in smoothing it in with a bit of fresh oil (helps it make a better seal).

When all the oil has drained, this will take about 5 mins or so, Refit the oil drain plug, reassemble the oil filter assembly just as it was when you took it out, and screw it back in..if using a torque wrench the drain bolt is tightened to 48NM and the oil filter bolt to 18NM (these are just for the old T3 Speed Triple) obviously other bikes will have different settings that you will need to refer to.

You are now ready to refill with new oil, if all the old oil was drained and the filter replaced it will take 4ltrs, after many oil changes I'm happy that 4ltr takes me to the upper level on the dip stick without any further faffing about * ( obviously any different bike you will need to check the Haynes for info). Refit the oil filler cap and run the engine for a minute or two...then leave for a few mins and recheck the oil level, if needs be top it up to the upper marker on the dip stick.

* Just a more detailed note about filling with oil generally ...The T3's need both wheels flat on the ground, bike upright (easier with you on it), and you check the oil level with the dip stick wound in..you will need to wind it in and out multiple times as some will be false readings from residual oil in the filler neck so have a cloth to hand and keep dipping and wiping until you get a reliable dipped reading...takes a little time...

Job done !!!

The old oil pour out of your tray, using the funnel, into the oil can the new oil came in, put the top on and dispose of the next time you visit the local tip (they have a tank for used oil to be recycled) plus any paper, or rags, old filters etc can also be bagged and got rid of there. DO NOT get rid of your oily waste any other way !

You have now completed probably the most important maintenance you can for your bike, you have saved money and hopefully it has inspired you to do more basic maintenance.

Good luck.